Noh robe (atsuita karaori)

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The fabric of this garment displays bold Buddhist gong motifs scattered against a patterned ground. This "cloud-jewel" gong design is based on a Chinese bronze musical instrument that accompanied Zen Buddhism to Japan during the Kamakura period (1185\u20131333). Used in monastic ceremonies, this type of gong became the model for a popular design for temple furnishings. Later the motif decorated robes worn in No plays, often by actors playing the roles of Zen monks or mountain ascetics.The stylized "Chinese flower" (karahana) motif, used first in the Chinese Tang court (618\u2013907), has adorned the garments of Japanese courtiers since the tenth century. When used in No, such aristocratic motifs, called yusoku, allude to dignity and femininity. This robe, with the gong and stylized floral pattern, could be for a male courtier-warrior character or a strong, mature woman. The atsuita karaori fabric combines the atsuita six-harness twill weave brocade of matte silk, woven in bold patterns, with long, glossy silk float karaori floral designs.

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